Where's My Waist? Although most people think of their waist as where they prefer the top of their skirts and pants to rest, the waist by definition is the smallest part of the torso. Many women wear skirts and pants not at the natural waist but sitting lower on the torso, often just resting on the top of the hip bone or at the navel. Style trends often have the 'waist' even lower on the pelvis. Commercial patterns are developed with the waist at the smallest part of the torso, unless the pattern specifies otherwise (for instance, '1½" [3.8 cm] below waist' might be printed near the top of a skirt pattern). For fitting and pattern development purposes, think of a lowered waistline as a stylistic element. Taking Your Measurements Accurate body measurements are an essential starting point. Wear the undergarments that you normally would with the garment you intend to sew. Undergarments that fit well make the fitting process easier and the final garment more attractive. When taking measurements, assume a normal stance, do not pull the tape tight, but have it rest lightly on the body. High bust/chest: Measure directly under the arms, across the chest (above the full bust), and across the back, keeping the tape straight across the back Bust/full bust: Measure over the fullest part of the bust and across the back, keeping the tape straight and parallel to the floor Waist: Measure the natural waist, which is the smallest part of the torso, even if you usually wear your garments lower. A narrow elastic tied around the waist will seek the smallest part of the torso Hip: Measure the fullest part of the hip/buttock, keeping the tape parallel to the floor. Use the abdominal measurement or a high, full thigh measurement if it is greater than the hip/buttock measurement Moving a Seam Step 1 Before unpinning the muslin, mark the pin placement (black) and create a new notch on the muslin (green). To create the notch, simply draw a short line perpendicular to the seam. It should clearly show on each of the adjoining garment sections. Then unpin and press the muslin flat. Step 2 Transfer the new seam placement (red) and the notch (red) to the pattern. Adjust the seam allowances along the shoulder seam and cut along the new cut line. Step 3 Stack the patterns to true the neckline intersection as follows: Fold one of the pattern pieces along the shoulder seam line; it doesn’t matter which one. Align this seam with the adjoining shoulder seam, matching the new notch. Pin the pattern pieces together. In this example, the neckline seams match but the cut lines do not. Step 4 To true the cut lines, add seam allowance on the front pattern piece at the shoulder, as follows: Draw the intersecting neckline and armhole seam lines, and add the seam allowances. This is what the pattern pieces look like when finished. First Time Series The Absolute Beginner's Guide - Learn by Doing Step-by-Step Basics + Projects.
✔ Author(s): Sarah Veblen
✔ Title: First Time Garment Fitting: The Absolute Beginner's Guide - Learn by Doing * Step-by-Step Basics + 8 Projects
✔ Rating : 4.7 out of 5 base on (203 reviews)
✔ ISBN-10: 1589239628
✔ Language: English
✔ Format ebook: PDF, EPUB, Kindle, Audio, HTML and MOBI
✔ Device compatibles: Android, iOS, PC and Amazon Kindle
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