From Chapter One: Anchor Basics One of the beauties of rock climbing is its amazing diversity. Sea cliffs, high alpine faces, desert towers, water-carved canyons, random crags in the woods: the geographical possibilities are endless. You can also change the angle, from tip-toe friction slabs to striking vertical faces to gymnastic roofs and caves; or pick a crack of any size, from fingertips to chimneys. You can pursue boulder problems, eighty-foot sport routes, multi-pitch gear routes, or massive walls. Then you have the protection factor, ranging from no-commitment top ropes to athletic clip-ups, and from splitter cracks that devour pro to dicey, runout, rarely climbed test pieces. And how much effort do you want to spend? You can choose from easy romps, full-throttle on-sights, and multi-day redpoint projects. Given all this variety, one thing remains common: most rock climbing (besides bouldering and free soloing) relies on anchors for creating the safety system. -- Topher Donahue Sample Lesson - Chapter Three, Chocks In a pinch, you can set a nut endwise to fit a bigger crack, but it’s weaker. In solid rock, sideways placements are often bomber because the wide surfaces against the rock result in more surface contact. In a horizontal crack, try to find an opening in the back of the crack that allows you to slide the nut toward a constriction on the edge of the crack. Such a placement can be bomber. The piece shown is good, provided it does not get pulled to the left. The crack has no constriction to resist an outward pull, so the rope may wriggle the nut out, or the nut might pop out in a fall. Even worse, it has very poor surface contact with the rock. If the rock breaks a little, the nut will fail. This nut could pull the fractured block on the left side loose. Be careful what you set your anchors behind. The nut also relies on a thin, fractured layer on the right side.
✔ Author(s): Topher Donahue,Craig Luebben
✔ Title: Rock Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition: A Comprehensive Guide (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert)
✔ Rating : 4.9 out of 5 base on (64 reviews)
✔ ISBN-10: 1680511408
✔ ISBN-13: 9781680511406
✔ Language: English
✔ Format ebook: PDF, EPUB, Kindle, Audio, HTML and MOBI
✔ Device compatibles: Android, iOS, PC and Amazon Kindle
Readers' opinions about Rock Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition by Topher Donahue
Thea Bell
I'm still in awe of the intricate plot and the way everything seamlessly came together. The twists kept me guessing until the very end. It's one of those rare books that leave a lasting impact.
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The way this book explored the complexities of human nature and relationships was both profound and relatable. It touched my heart in ways I didn't expect.
Violet Tyler
The plot was so well-paced that I lost track of time while reading. I was completely immersed in the story, eagerly turning the pages to uncover the next twist.
