The saying goes, "The second best thing about surfing is talking about it afterward."Gerry Lopez, one of the most revered surfers of all time brings readers into the intimately personal sport with Surf Is Where You Find It, a collection of stories that recount harrowing waves, epic wipeouts, and heroes encountered over a lifetime on the water. From growing up in Hawaii in the '50s and '60s, to finding the tube in the early days at Pipeline, to pioneering legendary spots like Uluwatu and G-Land in Indonesia, Lopez has traveled for surf the world over. But for him, the people stood out the most. Originally published in 2008, Surf Is Where You Find It preserves memories of surf eras gone by, and commemorates those who helped shape the surfing world today. Now, ten years and more than 50,000 copies later, Patagonia is once again re-launching the surfing classic in a fully redesigned edition with new photos. Timed to correspond with the release of a new documentary, The Yin and Yang of Gerry Lopez about Gerry produced by equally legendary surfer and skateboarder Stacy Peralta, these 38 stories and hundreds of photos offer more of Gerry than ever before. In these pages, Gerry pays homage to those who shaped surfing today -- surfing any time, anywhere, and in any way. Includes forewords by Rob Machado and The Surfer's Journal founder Steve Pezman.
✔ Author(s): Gerry Lopez,Rob Machado,Steve Pezman
✔ Title: Surf Is Where You Find It: The Wisdom of Waves, Any Time, Anywhere, Any Way
✔ Rating : 4.6 out of 5 base on (41 reviews)
✔ ISBN-10: 1938340949
✔ Language: English
✔ Format ebook: PDF, EPUB, Kindle, Audio, HTML and MOBI
✔ Device compatibles: Android, iOS, PC and Amazon Kindle
Readers' opinions about Surf Is Where You Find It by Gerry Lopez
Meral Fowler
Explore the transformative power of travel and adventure in this inspiring memoir. The author's vivid descriptions and engaging writing make you feel like you're right there with them. Each chapter offers new insights into different cultures and landscapes. The narrative is both informative and deeply personal, sharing the highs and lows of the journey. It's a story that inspires wanderlust and personal growth. Perfect for those who love travel stories.
Molly Adams
Delve into a richly detailed fantasy world where magic and mystery abound. The author's imaginative world-building and captivating plot draw you in from the start. Each character's journey is thrilling and their development is relatable. The narrative is filled with enchanting elements that keep you hooked. It's a story that sparks the imagination and transports you to another realm. Perfect for fans of epic fantasy.
Bets Leonard
Experience the emotional journey of a character discovering their true self in this moving novel. The author's empathetic writing and rich character development create a deeply resonant narrative. Each chapter explores themes of identity, acceptance, and love with sensitivity. The plot's twists and turns keep you engaged from start to finish. It's a heartwarming and thought-provoking read. Perfect for readers who enjoy stories about personal growth and self-discovery.
